If your dog has a thing for poop, don’t be embarrassed. This tendency known also as coprophagia, is so common that virtually every dog-training book devotes a section to it. Nutritional deficiency can be the cause for this behavior, so you should first consult a veterinarian. As a rule however, coprophagia is simply a behavioral problem.
You should take preventive measures by cleaning up immediately after she eliminates and stop the bad habit before it starts. Even habitual stool eaters may lose their taste and fascination for it if they’re not given an opportunity to eat stools for many months.
Teach repulsion by setting your dog up on leash. Take her to the waste of preference and use a silent Bitter Apple spray if she tries to munch. Repeat this setup daily by approaching the foul temptation with her on leash, ready to spritz Bitter Apple in her mouth as she attempts to snatch a nugget. Don’t allow her off leash until she refrains for at least one to two weeks.
The other alternative is to use Forbid if she eats her own stool. Unfortunately, this is not a long-term solution; she’ll resume the habit when you take her off the medicine.
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Dog Problems - Digging
Are your dogs digging up your lawn and flower beds? Sometimes dogs can be annoying diggers, as it is typical of animal behavior. Different dogs dig for different reasons, so before you go looking for solutions, it’s important to determine why your dog digs in the first place.
Many of the reasons for digging are often breed dependent. Heavy-coated, spitz-type dogs, such as sled dogs and chow chows, dig cooling pits during hot weather to make themselves more comfortable. Earth dogs—those bred to tunnel underground to dispatch prey, such as short-legged terriers and dachshunds—are simply obeying their natural impulses as they dig up the yard to find gophers, moles or other “vermin.” Scent hounds (beagles, bassets and coonhounds) and unneutered males of any breed type often dig along fence lines because the lures of small game, food or females in heat are especially strong.
However, if the digging is driving you mad, there are ways to curb it:
1. Most often, digging comes from a lack of exercise. If you can get your dog tired out, chances are they'll be left with little energy for digging.
2. Be careful when you do your gardening. Freshly turned soil is very tempting to a digger. Try to keep your dog out of sight when you're working, as sometimes they will 'mimic' your digging actions.
3. If your dog spends a lot of time outdoors, then digging may be a reaction to the temperature. A dog lying in a freshly dug hole on a summer day indicates a need to be cool. Perhaps you could find a cool spot for your dog, perhaps under a tree. In the winter, digging may be a need to find a warmer spot. Maybe by providing your dog with a warm sheltered spot instead, you will divert them.
4. Some experts contend that some animals are just perpetual diggers. If this is your case, you might just consider allotting a portion of your yard as your pet's digging area. You can do this by overturning and softening (perhaps using sand) a 3 x 5 area in your yard. To pique their interest, try burying some of their favorite toys in the area as well. Hopefully, this will become their favorite spot.
5. When you are unable to supervise your dog enclose him on something he can't dig such as concrete or wood. If he is unable to dig he will gradually eliminate the habit.
6. When supervising him if you should see him start to dig try to scare him by rushing at him and shouting NO!
7. If he does manage to dig a hole unobserved, fill the hole with water and take him to it pushing his head in until he gasps then release him, this creates a bad association with digging.
8. Remember prevention is better than cure, if you don't let him start a habit you won't have to cure him of it.
Many of the reasons for digging are often breed dependent. Heavy-coated, spitz-type dogs, such as sled dogs and chow chows, dig cooling pits during hot weather to make themselves more comfortable. Earth dogs—those bred to tunnel underground to dispatch prey, such as short-legged terriers and dachshunds—are simply obeying their natural impulses as they dig up the yard to find gophers, moles or other “vermin.” Scent hounds (beagles, bassets and coonhounds) and unneutered males of any breed type often dig along fence lines because the lures of small game, food or females in heat are especially strong.
However, if the digging is driving you mad, there are ways to curb it:
1. Most often, digging comes from a lack of exercise. If you can get your dog tired out, chances are they'll be left with little energy for digging.
2. Be careful when you do your gardening. Freshly turned soil is very tempting to a digger. Try to keep your dog out of sight when you're working, as sometimes they will 'mimic' your digging actions.
3. If your dog spends a lot of time outdoors, then digging may be a reaction to the temperature. A dog lying in a freshly dug hole on a summer day indicates a need to be cool. Perhaps you could find a cool spot for your dog, perhaps under a tree. In the winter, digging may be a need to find a warmer spot. Maybe by providing your dog with a warm sheltered spot instead, you will divert them.
4. Some experts contend that some animals are just perpetual diggers. If this is your case, you might just consider allotting a portion of your yard as your pet's digging area. You can do this by overturning and softening (perhaps using sand) a 3 x 5 area in your yard. To pique their interest, try burying some of their favorite toys in the area as well. Hopefully, this will become their favorite spot.
5. When you are unable to supervise your dog enclose him on something he can't dig such as concrete or wood. If he is unable to dig he will gradually eliminate the habit.
6. When supervising him if you should see him start to dig try to scare him by rushing at him and shouting NO!
7. If he does manage to dig a hole unobserved, fill the hole with water and take him to it pushing his head in until he gasps then release him, this creates a bad association with digging.
8. Remember prevention is better than cure, if you don't let him start a habit you won't have to cure him of it.
Monday, March 24, 2008
Dog Problems - Biting and Chewing
BITING
Dogs bite to get our attention, relieve frustration or change our behavior. Whether it’s playful, fear driven or dominant, get better control of your dog with obedience. Don’t ever allow her to be unleashed in a situation where she could threaten anyone. Be aware of the signs of impending aggression, such as making hard eye contact, stiffening, shifting weight forward, sticking tail out, growling, fast whining, or signs of interest, excitement or arousal.
When in doubt as to what your dog's behavior indicates, make her focus on commands. The time to get control is well before she reaches a highly agitated state; when her adrenaline is peaking, she’ll be oblivious to your attempts to correct her. This requires acute and constant supervision by a proficient handler.
CHEWING
When left to her own devices, a dog is certain to chew up your possessions. If you prefer to learn first-hand about the dangers of giving too much freedom too soon, puppy-proof your house by keeping it tidy, keeping doors closed and personal items out of reach and, as a preventive measure, smearing Bitter Apple cream on tempting woodwork and electrical cords. Confine your puppy in a safe place when you can’t supervise her. Finally, keep her leashed and correct her while she’s in the act of chewing by:
1. jerking her away from what she’s chewing on,
2. giving a spray of Bitter Apple in the mouth as you hold the collar,
3. startling the pup with a sharp handclap or shaker can, then encouraging her to play with an appropriate toy.
Note that certain items can increase problems with inappropriate chewing behavior. Avoid giving your dog personal items to chew on, like slippers, socks, gloves or towels. If your dog is attracted to the family’s stuffed toys, don’t give her soft, stuffed dog toys. If she is attracted to rugs or tassels, don’t provide her with rope or rag like toys.
If an older dog suddenly begins chewing on your possessions, give her plenty of exercise and appropriate items to chew, continue vigorous obedience and return to crating and supervising.
Dogs bite to get our attention, relieve frustration or change our behavior. Whether it’s playful, fear driven or dominant, get better control of your dog with obedience. Don’t ever allow her to be unleashed in a situation where she could threaten anyone. Be aware of the signs of impending aggression, such as making hard eye contact, stiffening, shifting weight forward, sticking tail out, growling, fast whining, or signs of interest, excitement or arousal.
When in doubt as to what your dog's behavior indicates, make her focus on commands. The time to get control is well before she reaches a highly agitated state; when her adrenaline is peaking, she’ll be oblivious to your attempts to correct her. This requires acute and constant supervision by a proficient handler.
CHEWING
When left to her own devices, a dog is certain to chew up your possessions. If you prefer to learn first-hand about the dangers of giving too much freedom too soon, puppy-proof your house by keeping it tidy, keeping doors closed and personal items out of reach and, as a preventive measure, smearing Bitter Apple cream on tempting woodwork and electrical cords. Confine your puppy in a safe place when you can’t supervise her. Finally, keep her leashed and correct her while she’s in the act of chewing by:
1. jerking her away from what she’s chewing on,
2. giving a spray of Bitter Apple in the mouth as you hold the collar,
3. startling the pup with a sharp handclap or shaker can, then encouraging her to play with an appropriate toy.
Note that certain items can increase problems with inappropriate chewing behavior. Avoid giving your dog personal items to chew on, like slippers, socks, gloves or towels. If your dog is attracted to the family’s stuffed toys, don’t give her soft, stuffed dog toys. If she is attracted to rugs or tassels, don’t provide her with rope or rag like toys.
If an older dog suddenly begins chewing on your possessions, give her plenty of exercise and appropriate items to chew, continue vigorous obedience and return to crating and supervising.
Dog Problems - Mouthing
Do you have a puppy that would rather use your arm than a bone as a chew toy? Nip mouthing in the bud! While it is normal for puppies to use their mouths when playing with each other, this behavior becomes a problem when it carries over into their interactions with us.
Many breeds are genetically inclined to use their mouths to do a job. Sporting breeds are the retrievers and the carriers of items. Working and the Herding breeds use their mouths to control the movements of humans or other animals. Terrier breeds are motion-activated and will chase anything they perceive as small rodents, including your feet. Understanding these tendencies in your own puppy, whether a mixed breed or purebred, can help in dealing with the problem with mouthing.
At a very young age, puppies begin to learn how much pressure with their mouths is too much by the reactions of their mothers and littermates. When puppies play, they chomp each other's ears and chew each other's necks until one bites down too hard. Then, the bitten puppy lets out a piercing "iey, iey, ieeyyy" (referred to as the wounded puppy noise), gets up and walks away. This teaches the biting puppy that when he is too rough, play ends. Since dogs are social animals, this in itself is a correction. The puppy learns bite inhibition through these play fighting sessions when allowed to remain with his litter until at least seven weeks of age. This is one of the most important lessons puppies carry into adulthood, especially concerning their relationship with people.
As a new puppy owner, it is necessary to establish what is and isn't acceptable behavior from the very first day. Puppies benefit from expectations that are consistently enforced. Teething lasts from four to six months, so mouthing is quite common then. If mouthing has not gotten under control by the time the puppy enters adolescence at six months, not only will you have a less cooperative teenager to handle, but a larger, stronger jaw to deal with as well. Mouthing can become a way for your puppy to try to control you, allowing him to take that first step towards assuming a leadership role within your home. The following techniques are recommended for most puppies up to four months of age, depending upon their size and the severity of the problem.
Initially, a puppy will use his mouth to investigate his environment. Throughout the teething process, it gives a puppy relief to chew on all manner of items, soft and hard. Providing appropriate items for your puppy to focus his attentions on can sometimes be a simple way of solving a mouthing problem. Indestructible chew toys like large nylon bones or hard rubber can provide a positive outlet for mouthing. Large rawhide bones and carrots can be placed in the freezer and given to a teething puppy. Braided fiber knotted tugs dipped in chicken broth or water and then frozen are also a good option.
If your puppy is chewing on you, the moment the pressure increases use your "wounded puppy" noise leaving your hand in their mouth. Once the pressure is released, slowly remove your hand. You may wish to offer the back of your hand for your puppy to lick. By doing this, not only are you teaching him that your skin is tender, but also that you expect a sign of deference (licking your hand) from him. Praise him in a calm manner if his cooperation is immediate and offer him an appropriate chew toy. Do not offer a toy while your hand is still in his mouth, or you will be rewarding the wrong behavior. You may also choose to assign a command like “no bite” or “no mouth,” so he will associate his behavior with your correction. This method should work with the average, eager-to-please puppy. For piranha puppies, a squirt of breath spray in the mouth when mouthing may serve as a negative reinforcer. To avoid the minty freshness, the puppy will keep his mouth closed.
Many breeds are genetically inclined to use their mouths to do a job. Sporting breeds are the retrievers and the carriers of items. Working and the Herding breeds use their mouths to control the movements of humans or other animals. Terrier breeds are motion-activated and will chase anything they perceive as small rodents, including your feet. Understanding these tendencies in your own puppy, whether a mixed breed or purebred, can help in dealing with the problem with mouthing.
At a very young age, puppies begin to learn how much pressure with their mouths is too much by the reactions of their mothers and littermates. When puppies play, they chomp each other's ears and chew each other's necks until one bites down too hard. Then, the bitten puppy lets out a piercing "iey, iey, ieeyyy" (referred to as the wounded puppy noise), gets up and walks away. This teaches the biting puppy that when he is too rough, play ends. Since dogs are social animals, this in itself is a correction. The puppy learns bite inhibition through these play fighting sessions when allowed to remain with his litter until at least seven weeks of age. This is one of the most important lessons puppies carry into adulthood, especially concerning their relationship with people.
As a new puppy owner, it is necessary to establish what is and isn't acceptable behavior from the very first day. Puppies benefit from expectations that are consistently enforced. Teething lasts from four to six months, so mouthing is quite common then. If mouthing has not gotten under control by the time the puppy enters adolescence at six months, not only will you have a less cooperative teenager to handle, but a larger, stronger jaw to deal with as well. Mouthing can become a way for your puppy to try to control you, allowing him to take that first step towards assuming a leadership role within your home. The following techniques are recommended for most puppies up to four months of age, depending upon their size and the severity of the problem.
Initially, a puppy will use his mouth to investigate his environment. Throughout the teething process, it gives a puppy relief to chew on all manner of items, soft and hard. Providing appropriate items for your puppy to focus his attentions on can sometimes be a simple way of solving a mouthing problem. Indestructible chew toys like large nylon bones or hard rubber can provide a positive outlet for mouthing. Large rawhide bones and carrots can be placed in the freezer and given to a teething puppy. Braided fiber knotted tugs dipped in chicken broth or water and then frozen are also a good option.
If your puppy is chewing on you, the moment the pressure increases use your "wounded puppy" noise leaving your hand in their mouth. Once the pressure is released, slowly remove your hand. You may wish to offer the back of your hand for your puppy to lick. By doing this, not only are you teaching him that your skin is tender, but also that you expect a sign of deference (licking your hand) from him. Praise him in a calm manner if his cooperation is immediate and offer him an appropriate chew toy. Do not offer a toy while your hand is still in his mouth, or you will be rewarding the wrong behavior. You may also choose to assign a command like “no bite” or “no mouth,” so he will associate his behavior with your correction. This method should work with the average, eager-to-please puppy. For piranha puppies, a squirt of breath spray in the mouth when mouthing may serve as a negative reinforcer. To avoid the minty freshness, the puppy will keep his mouth closed.
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