I'm sure most of you must have had the experience of your dog jumping up on you or your guest. If it's a big dog, it can most certainly knock you down. There are three good dog training methods, which you can try to get your dog to stop jumping up on you or your guests. If you try one and it fails, try another. One of them should work, provided you practice it consistently for at least six straight weeks whenever the dog jumps up.
Method A: Holding the dog's paws
The following method works best to stop your dog from jumping up on you. (Do not use this method if your dog has shown any aggressive tendencies).
1. Call your dog over to you. If it jumps up, calmly but firmly grasp its front paws, one in each hand, and do not let go. Talk to the dog calmly and do not get emotional, but make sure not to let go.
2. After a few seconds, the dog will want its paws back. Do not let go yet. Just keep talking calmly. Even if it whines or mouths your hands, keep hold.
3. After eight or ten seconds, your dog will be very annoyed and will really want you to release it. At that point, let go and simultaneously say "OFF". When the dog's front feet touch the ground, say "Good Off", and then really praise it.
4. Wait a few minutes, then call the dog over again. If it jumps up on you, repeat the exercise. Most dogs will very quickly learn not to jump on you if you use this method.
5. Have all members of the household practice this method, provided they are strong enough to hold onto the dog's paws. The very young may have difficulty with this.
Method B: Using a spray bottle
For this method, you will need to purchase several plant sprayer bottles. Fill them with water, and adjust them so that they emit a tight stream of water. Place them in areas of the home where they are easily accessible, and where the jumping is most likely to occur.
1. Call your dog over to you (making sure to have a spay bottle in hand). If your dog jumps up on you, immediately spray it in the mouth and nose with the water while saying "OFF" When its front feet touch the floor, say "Good Off", then praise it.
2. Repeat the exercise in a few minutes. Your dog should learn very quickly not to continue jumping up on you.
3. Have all members of the family as well as frequent visitors practice this exercise. Do not allow young children to make a game out of spraying the dog; this would be cruel and counterproductive to the behavioral modification that you are trying to invoke.
Method C: Using a leash and collar
Some dogs will not jump up onto you, but will do so onto others who approach it, particularly during walks. This method works best with these types of dogs.
1. Have a friend wait for you about a block or two down the street.
2. Clip your dog's leash onto its training collar, then go out for a walk.
3. Approach your friend. The moment your dog begins to jump up, give the leash a firm, quick pop toward your knees, while saying "NO, OFF". At the same time, the friend should back away a few steps. Do not become emotional; simply use a firm, commanding tone of voice.
4. Next, ask your dog to sit. As soon as it does, have your friend pet it, and give it a treat. You want your dog to eventually realize that sitting is the proper position to be in when being greeted. Whenever the dog jumps up, correct it with a firm pop on the leash; whenever it sits to be greeted, have your friend praise it. Soon, the dog will be conditioned to perform the behavior that receives the more pleasant response, namely the pet on the head, rather than the "pop" of the leash.
5. An alternative to this method is to have two leashes clipped to the dog's collar when approaching the friend. When you are close to the friend, stop, step on the loose leash so that there is little slack in it, then have the friend come up and pet the dog. If it tries to jump up, the leash you have your foot on will instantly become taut, preventing the dog from jumping up. Be sure to maintain a grip on the other leash, to prevent the dog from running away.
Remember that, whichever technique you choose, it must be practiced consistently for at least six weeks, the period of time it takes to permanently modify a behavior in a dog. If you are diligent, you should be able to stop this annoying habit in its tracks.
Thursday, March 27, 2008
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Dog Problems - Aggression
Dogs aggression can be categorized into:
1. aggression towards other dogs,
2. aggression towards visitors,
3. aggression towards moving objects
4. possessive aggression
AGGRESSION TOWARDS OTHER DOGS
• If you see another dog approaching when walking your dog try to get your dog to focus his attention on you by making him work for you in some way. Try to do this before your dog has already eyed up the other dog.
• Do not yell at your dog or the other dog, this will only create aggravation, your dog will only get more worked up and associate this with other dogs. He will immediately start getting upset when he sees another dog anticipating your reaction.
• If you have a large dog, which you feel may attack another dog while on the leash, use a halt to control him.
AGGRESSION TOWARDS VISITORS
• When visitors call, shut your dog in another room until you have achieved control.
• Arrange for someone to visit that you know will not be frightened of the dog and will follow your instructions to assist with training. The first step is to tell this person not to respond to the dog by either yelling at it or making a fuss, either one will get the dog excited which is exactly the opposite reaction you want.
• In the first session put the dog out of the room and bring him in when the 'visitor' has sat down. Talk quietly for a few minutes ignoring the dog then end the visit. Repeat this process a few times until the 'visitor' can be met at the door. It is important that the dog is taught to sit beside you at the door when someone calls, teach him to do this and not bark and jump at the door or rush forward as the visitor walks
• Until you have gained this control each time you get a real visitor put the dog out so that he is only learning from the situation you control.
AGGRESSION TOWARDS MOVING OBJECTS
• Teach him to come when called.
• Intervene as early as possible, he is more likely to obey you when he is close than if he has already started to chase something.
POSSESSIVE AGGRESSION
• Remove the object the dog is possessive about whether it be a chair, a toy or whatever he will not let you touch while he is there.
• Attain dominance over your dog by making him wait for food, attention etc. When you are dominant reintroduce the possessive item, as soon as the dog goes to it, tell him to go and lie down. If he becomes possessive again you have reintroduced the object to quickly.
Dog aggression if not controlled, may pose a serious problem to a dog owner like you. You may want to check out Kingdom of Pets: SitStayFetch for more tips on how to correct your dog aggression problem.
1. aggression towards other dogs,
2. aggression towards visitors,
3. aggression towards moving objects
4. possessive aggression
AGGRESSION TOWARDS OTHER DOGS
• If you see another dog approaching when walking your dog try to get your dog to focus his attention on you by making him work for you in some way. Try to do this before your dog has already eyed up the other dog.
• Do not yell at your dog or the other dog, this will only create aggravation, your dog will only get more worked up and associate this with other dogs. He will immediately start getting upset when he sees another dog anticipating your reaction.
• If you have a large dog, which you feel may attack another dog while on the leash, use a halt to control him.
AGGRESSION TOWARDS VISITORS
• When visitors call, shut your dog in another room until you have achieved control.
• Arrange for someone to visit that you know will not be frightened of the dog and will follow your instructions to assist with training. The first step is to tell this person not to respond to the dog by either yelling at it or making a fuss, either one will get the dog excited which is exactly the opposite reaction you want.
• In the first session put the dog out of the room and bring him in when the 'visitor' has sat down. Talk quietly for a few minutes ignoring the dog then end the visit. Repeat this process a few times until the 'visitor' can be met at the door. It is important that the dog is taught to sit beside you at the door when someone calls, teach him to do this and not bark and jump at the door or rush forward as the visitor walks
• Until you have gained this control each time you get a real visitor put the dog out so that he is only learning from the situation you control.
AGGRESSION TOWARDS MOVING OBJECTS
• Teach him to come when called.
• Intervene as early as possible, he is more likely to obey you when he is close than if he has already started to chase something.
POSSESSIVE AGGRESSION
• Remove the object the dog is possessive about whether it be a chair, a toy or whatever he will not let you touch while he is there.
• Attain dominance over your dog by making him wait for food, attention etc. When you are dominant reintroduce the possessive item, as soon as the dog goes to it, tell him to go and lie down. If he becomes possessive again you have reintroduced the object to quickly.
Dog aggression if not controlled, may pose a serious problem to a dog owner like you. You may want to check out Kingdom of Pets: SitStayFetch for more tips on how to correct your dog aggression problem.
Dog Problems - Eating Stools
If your dog has a thing for poop, don’t be embarrassed. This tendency known also as coprophagia, is so common that virtually every dog-training book devotes a section to it. Nutritional deficiency can be the cause for this behavior, so you should first consult a veterinarian. As a rule however, coprophagia is simply a behavioral problem.
You should take preventive measures by cleaning up immediately after she eliminates and stop the bad habit before it starts. Even habitual stool eaters may lose their taste and fascination for it if they’re not given an opportunity to eat stools for many months.
Teach repulsion by setting your dog up on leash. Take her to the waste of preference and use a silent Bitter Apple spray if she tries to munch. Repeat this setup daily by approaching the foul temptation with her on leash, ready to spritz Bitter Apple in her mouth as she attempts to snatch a nugget. Don’t allow her off leash until she refrains for at least one to two weeks.
The other alternative is to use Forbid if she eats her own stool. Unfortunately, this is not a long-term solution; she’ll resume the habit when you take her off the medicine.
You should take preventive measures by cleaning up immediately after she eliminates and stop the bad habit before it starts. Even habitual stool eaters may lose their taste and fascination for it if they’re not given an opportunity to eat stools for many months.
Teach repulsion by setting your dog up on leash. Take her to the waste of preference and use a silent Bitter Apple spray if she tries to munch. Repeat this setup daily by approaching the foul temptation with her on leash, ready to spritz Bitter Apple in her mouth as she attempts to snatch a nugget. Don’t allow her off leash until she refrains for at least one to two weeks.
The other alternative is to use Forbid if she eats her own stool. Unfortunately, this is not a long-term solution; she’ll resume the habit when you take her off the medicine.
Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Dog Problems - Digging
Are your dogs digging up your lawn and flower beds? Sometimes dogs can be annoying diggers, as it is typical of animal behavior. Different dogs dig for different reasons, so before you go looking for solutions, it’s important to determine why your dog digs in the first place.
Many of the reasons for digging are often breed dependent. Heavy-coated, spitz-type dogs, such as sled dogs and chow chows, dig cooling pits during hot weather to make themselves more comfortable. Earth dogs—those bred to tunnel underground to dispatch prey, such as short-legged terriers and dachshunds—are simply obeying their natural impulses as they dig up the yard to find gophers, moles or other “vermin.” Scent hounds (beagles, bassets and coonhounds) and unneutered males of any breed type often dig along fence lines because the lures of small game, food or females in heat are especially strong.
However, if the digging is driving you mad, there are ways to curb it:
1. Most often, digging comes from a lack of exercise. If you can get your dog tired out, chances are they'll be left with little energy for digging.
2. Be careful when you do your gardening. Freshly turned soil is very tempting to a digger. Try to keep your dog out of sight when you're working, as sometimes they will 'mimic' your digging actions.
3. If your dog spends a lot of time outdoors, then digging may be a reaction to the temperature. A dog lying in a freshly dug hole on a summer day indicates a need to be cool. Perhaps you could find a cool spot for your dog, perhaps under a tree. In the winter, digging may be a need to find a warmer spot. Maybe by providing your dog with a warm sheltered spot instead, you will divert them.
4. Some experts contend that some animals are just perpetual diggers. If this is your case, you might just consider allotting a portion of your yard as your pet's digging area. You can do this by overturning and softening (perhaps using sand) a 3 x 5 area in your yard. To pique their interest, try burying some of their favorite toys in the area as well. Hopefully, this will become their favorite spot.
5. When you are unable to supervise your dog enclose him on something he can't dig such as concrete or wood. If he is unable to dig he will gradually eliminate the habit.
6. When supervising him if you should see him start to dig try to scare him by rushing at him and shouting NO!
7. If he does manage to dig a hole unobserved, fill the hole with water and take him to it pushing his head in until he gasps then release him, this creates a bad association with digging.
8. Remember prevention is better than cure, if you don't let him start a habit you won't have to cure him of it.
Many of the reasons for digging are often breed dependent. Heavy-coated, spitz-type dogs, such as sled dogs and chow chows, dig cooling pits during hot weather to make themselves more comfortable. Earth dogs—those bred to tunnel underground to dispatch prey, such as short-legged terriers and dachshunds—are simply obeying their natural impulses as they dig up the yard to find gophers, moles or other “vermin.” Scent hounds (beagles, bassets and coonhounds) and unneutered males of any breed type often dig along fence lines because the lures of small game, food or females in heat are especially strong.
However, if the digging is driving you mad, there are ways to curb it:
1. Most often, digging comes from a lack of exercise. If you can get your dog tired out, chances are they'll be left with little energy for digging.
2. Be careful when you do your gardening. Freshly turned soil is very tempting to a digger. Try to keep your dog out of sight when you're working, as sometimes they will 'mimic' your digging actions.
3. If your dog spends a lot of time outdoors, then digging may be a reaction to the temperature. A dog lying in a freshly dug hole on a summer day indicates a need to be cool. Perhaps you could find a cool spot for your dog, perhaps under a tree. In the winter, digging may be a need to find a warmer spot. Maybe by providing your dog with a warm sheltered spot instead, you will divert them.
4. Some experts contend that some animals are just perpetual diggers. If this is your case, you might just consider allotting a portion of your yard as your pet's digging area. You can do this by overturning and softening (perhaps using sand) a 3 x 5 area in your yard. To pique their interest, try burying some of their favorite toys in the area as well. Hopefully, this will become their favorite spot.
5. When you are unable to supervise your dog enclose him on something he can't dig such as concrete or wood. If he is unable to dig he will gradually eliminate the habit.
6. When supervising him if you should see him start to dig try to scare him by rushing at him and shouting NO!
7. If he does manage to dig a hole unobserved, fill the hole with water and take him to it pushing his head in until he gasps then release him, this creates a bad association with digging.
8. Remember prevention is better than cure, if you don't let him start a habit you won't have to cure him of it.
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